Licorice Extract (Mulethi) for Gentle Brightening, Redness Reduction & Soothing: Complete Guide
Licorice Extract (Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract) contains Glabridin, which gently inhibits tyrosinase while calming inflammation. It fades dark spots and reduces redness, making it ideal for sensitive, reactive Indian skin.
The Derma Co uses Licorice across sunscreens and brightening products for natural, soothing pigmentation control that complements clinical actives.
Licorice Extract at a Glance
The essentials before we dive into the science.
| Attribute | Detail |
|---|---|
| INCI Name | Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract |
| Alternate Names | Mulethi, Licorice Root, Glabridin (primary active) |
| Ingredient Type | Signature Indian Botanical |
| Category | Pigment Inhibitor, Anti-inflammatory |
| Best For | Fading dark spots and uneven pigmentation gently. Reducing skin redness and inflammation alongside brightening. Soothing skin stressed by harsh actives or hard water. |
| Concentration | Varies (Standardized extract in cosmetic formulations) |
| Properties | Non-comedogenic. Low sensitivity risk. No photosensitivity. Anti-inflammatory and tyrosinase inhibitor. |
| Sensitive Scalp Suitability | Yes: Particularly suitable — its anti-inflammatory action benefits reactive and redness-prone skin types. |
| Ingredient Strength | Gentle active: Gradual brightening and anti-inflammatory benefit over 6 to 8 weeks. |
What Is Licorice Extract and Why Do People Use It?
Licorice contains Glabridin, a potent flavonoid that inhibits tyrosinase (the pigment enzyme) and reduces inflammation simultaneously. The Derma Co uses it across its sunscreens and brightening ranges to provide a gentle, natural layer of pigmentation control that complements clinical actives.
People use Licorice Extract to:
• Fading dark spots and uneven pigmentation gently.
• Reducing skin redness and inflammation alongside brightening.
• Soothing skin stressed by harsh actives or hard water.
The Derma Co Formulation Note: Licorice provides traditional Indian soothing benefits in modern, evidence-based formulas that work alongside potent brighteners.
How Licorice Extract Works: The Science
1. Tyrosinase Inhibition
Glabridin inhibits UVB-induced tyrosinase activation, reducing melanin synthesis in response to UV exposure.
2. Anti-inflammatory
Glycyrrhizinic acid inhibits prostaglandin synthesis, calming redness and reducing the inflammatory triggers that drive post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).
3. Selective Depigmentation
Preferentially affects overactive melanocytes rather than normally pigmented cells.
Functional Role in Skincare
| Functional Role | Category | Sub-role Mechanism |
|---|---|---|
| Pigment Inhibitor | Brightening Agent | Inhibits tyrosinase to reduce melanin production. |
| Anti-inflammatory | Calming Agent | Reduces redness and PIH triggers. |
| Soothing Support | Barrier Soother | Calms stressed skin from harsh actives or environmental factors. |
Benefit intensity: Gentle active: Gradual brightening and anti-inflammatory benefit over 6 to 8 weeks.
Skin Concerns Licorice Extract Treats
| Skin Concern | Root Cause Addressed | Mechanism of Action | Studied Concentration | Research Anchor |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| UV-Triggered Dark Spots and Uneven Tone | Triggered by India's year-round high UV index continuously activating tyrosinase in sun-exposed skin. | Inhibits UVB-activated tyrosinase response. | Standardized extract | Biol Pharm Bull, 1998 |
| PIH with Associated Redness | Triggered when humidity-driven acne breakouts leave both marks and residual redness. | Dual action on pigmentation and inflammation. | Standardized extract | Biol Pharm Bull, 1998 |
Why Licorice Extract Is Effective for Indian Skin and Climate
Mulethi has deep roots in Indian Ayurvedic medicine. The Derma Co translates this traditional credibility into modern formulas combining Glabridin with clinical actives. Its ability to calm redness associated with PIH makes it uniquely suited for Indian skin, where post-acne marks are often accompanied by lingering inflammation.
Clinical Evidence: Peer-Reviewed Research
| Concentration | Outcome Measured | Study Type | Source & Year | Key Finding |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Standardized extract | Tyrosinase inhibition | In-vitro | Biol Pharm Bull, 1998 | Glabridin demonstrated significant inhibition of UVB-induced tyrosinase activation and melanin synthesis. (PMID 9639720) |
Who Should Use Licorice Extract: Skin Type Guide
| Primary Concern | Skin Type | Severity | Recommended Approach |
|---|---|---|---|
| Daily brightening + UV defense | All skin types | Mild to Moderate | Ceramide & Vitamin C Sunscreen — Licorice + Vitamin C + Ceramides for protected brightening. |
| Stubborn pigmentation + acne | Sensitive, acne-prone | Moderate | Tran-Zelaic Pigmentation Corrector Serum — Licorice support alongside TXA and Azelaic. |
How to Use Licorice Extract: Application Guide
Beginner
New to brightening
Intermediate
Established routine
Advanced
Multiple actives
Application Rules
AM/PM Suitability: Safe for both morning and evening use. Morning use enhances UV defense.
Routine Step: Apply after cleansing and toning, before moisturizers and sunscreen.
Sunscreen Requirement: No photosensitivity. Enhances protection but does not replace SPF.
Patch Testing: Apply behind the ear. Wait 24 hours. Low reaction risk.
What Licorice Extract Cannot Do
Does not provide dramatic results alone: Works best alongside stronger brighteners like Vitamin C or Kojic Acid.
Does not treat deep melasma instantly: Requires consistent use (6-8 weeks) and combination therapy for significant fading.
Does not replace sunscreen: Enhances protection but daily broad-spectrum SPF is essential.
Licorice Extract Compatibility: Pairing Guide
| Ingredient | Compatibility | Mechanism Relationship | Benefit of Pairing |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vitamin C | Highly Recommended | Complementary brightening | Licorice calms inflammation while Vitamin C brightens; present together in The Derma Co sunscreens. |
| Kojic Acid | Highly Recommended | Dual-pathway tyrosinase inhibition | Multi-angle pigmentation control for stubborn spots. |
How to Find the Right Licorice Product (The Derma Co Range)
The Derma Co combines Licorice with clinical actives for gentle yet effective brightening and soothing. Mid-range pricing (₹499–₹899) makes accessible, Ayurvedic-inspired skincare.
Ceramide & Vitamin C Sunscreen
Daily brightening + UV defense: Licorice + Vitamin C + Ceramides for protected brightening.
Shop NowTran-Zelaic Pigmentation Corrector Serum
Stubborn pigmentation + acne: Licorice support alongside TXA and Azelaic.
Shop NowFrequently Asked Questions About Licorice Extract
A: Yes. Its anti-inflammatory properties make it particularly suitable for redness-prone and sensitive skin.
A: Visible improvement in tone and reduced redness typically appears in 6 to 8 weeks with consistent use.
A: Yes. They complement each other beautifully for enhanced brightening and calming effects.
References
- Biol Pharm Bull. 1998. Glabridin demonstrated significant inhibition of UVB-induced tyrosinase activation and melanin synthesis. (PMID 9639720)
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